Canadian Gulf Islands

Canadian Gulf Islands

With seven large islands and dozens of smaller ones, this archipelago, just north of the Canada-US boarder is a mecca for boaters and folks seeking a quiet retirement or an escape from busy Vancouver. Served by multiple ferries, the islands have a much quieter flavor than the much busier San Juans further south.
Above two ferries transit Active Pass, the winding channel between Galiano on the right (south) and Mayne Islands. Strong tides sweep through this passage with currents as fast as 6 m.p.h. As you can see from the photo the Vancouver - Sidney ferries meet almost right in the middle, which can ba hazardous when the tidal currents are running hard.

With many excellent harbors and a number of marine parks in protected bays, both Canadian and American boaters head here every summer. Whether you come by boat or ferry from Vancouver, the contrast a few hours of travel makes, from busy urban to sleepy island, is especially dramatic.

This is Tumbo Island, remote and roadless, very southern corner of the Gulf Islands. Acessible only to boaters and without facilities, it is popular for boaters wishing to avoid the often crowded other marine parks.

The tidal currents run swiftly through the narrow passes or channels among these islands. On many safe passage is only possible at slack water, the few minutes at the top or bottom of the tide when the current ceases before running in the other direction.
One windy evening I was coming back from Alaska in a 70 foot fish buying boat, towing a disabled 36’ fishing boat. The period of slack water, when it would be safe to transit Dodd Narrows had passed 30 minutes earlier, but I thought I still might be able to get through. I shortened the towline and alerted our friend in the boat we were towing what we were up to, climbed up onto the flying bridge just before we entered the rapids.
Instantly I knew it was a bad mistake. The current was almost too strong to get through against it, even throttling all the way up to full speed, but the whirlpools and the current eddies were the worst, making me turn the wheel all the way one way and then all the way the other way just to stay off the rocky sides of the channel. And if I hadn’t shortened the towline, I was sure the boat behind would have smacked the shore
But finally we were through and I sighed in relief. I called on the radio to the boat on the towline, asked him how it had been.
“Oh, not too bad,” he answered, “I had to steer a little bit to stay off the rocks.” He paused a bit then added, “O, and I bit my cigar in half…!”